Leigh Clarke: 1990 found Jamie and I traipsing around East Africa and the Middle East. With nothing but daypacks to hold our gear -- the smaller the better to avoid checking or stowing our bags -- we availed ourselves of whatever transport we could in Kenya, Tanzania, Egypt, Israel, Jordan and Turkey. Our luck almost ran out when we jumped an old fishing boat in Dar es Saalem bound for the fabled spice island, Zanzibar. The trip over was uneventful. The old diesel engine pounded out a deep chugging beat as the Tanzanian captain casually held the boat steady with a single talented big toe on the wheel...
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